A Journey to Chennai and Thanjavur: 2018 / 3

 After a good vegetarian thali with sweet payasam, we headed to a nearby temple. Unfortunately, I cannot recollect the name of the temple now. I only remember that it was a temple dedicated Devi and  an auspicious day and that the temple was quite crowded. To be honest, I don’t remember much else from that visit.

I should admit that by then, I was a little tired and exhausted for many reasons. Straight from work to flights, early morning tours, walking around Periya Kovil and Thanjavur Palace, and then a really good, hot vegetarian meal — yes, I was feeling sleepy!

My eyes were slowly closing, and I was missing the views around me. But not for long. A quick nap, and the traveller in me was ready again!

As the weather was quite cool, we opted for a taxi without air conditioning. Apparently, the drivers don’t use the AC unless you pay extra for it. But this actually turned out to be a blessing in disguise. With the windows open, we could enjoy the beautiful village scenery, endless paddy fields and the cool breeze along the way. It felt much better than sitting inside an air-conditioned car.

Around 3 pm, the car stopped near the banks of the River Kaveri.

Oh, what can I say about that moment?

It was so refreshing that I simply did not feel like leaving. The cool river, the gentle breeze and the peaceful surroundings created such a relaxing ambience. At that moment, I honestly could not ask for anything more.

We all walked down the steps towards the river, dipped our feet in the cool water and stood there for some time. Somehow, it felt as though my exhausted body had suddenly been recharged. I felt so refreshed, almost as if I had just taken a good, long shower!

Near the banks of the River Kaveri is the Tyagaraja Samadhi, the resting place of Saint Tyagaraja, the legendary Carnatic music composer.  This was an emotional moment for me, as I had never imagined that I would one day visit this place, as I never knew this exsisted and receive his blessings, especially for my daughter, who is so fond of dance and music. It felt even more special to be there and seek his blessings for her.

One thing I noticed during this trip was how temples and shrines seemed to be a part of everyday life in Thanjavur. Everywhere you turn, there is an idol, a small shrine or a temple quietly blending into the surroundings.

Even by the banks of the Kaveri, there was a beautiful idol of Lord Vinayaga. Somehow, seeing the idol there, surrounded by the river and nature, felt very special. It was simple, peaceful and beautiful, just another little moment that made this journey memorable.

We then proceeded to a Navagraha temple, followed by a visit to Thiruvaiyaru, where we were blessed with the opportunity to seek the divine blessings from Aiyarappar Temple, also known as Panchanadeeswarar Temple. The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati

The name Thiruvaiyaru means “five rivers,” referring to the five rivers surrounding the town. The temple is renowned for its magnificent Chola-style stone carvings.  Maha Shivaratri and Panguni festivals are among the important festivals celebrated at the temple. Revered as Dakshina Kailasam (Kailash of the South), Aiyarappar Temple holds immense spiritual and historical significance for devotees. Our last temple run in Tanjore was the Vasisteswarar temple, dedicated to Guru Bhagavan. The memory which I can recollect from the temple, is the fragrance of jasmine flowers and the lady who sold it.

And that marked the end of our mighty Tanjore trip. We headed back to the hotel for a quick refresh before checking out after dinner.

Our next destination was T. Nagar, Chennai. As mentioned earlier, we had planned to travel to T. Nagar by train, which was one of the reasons we chose one of the best hotels near Tanjore Railway Station. Once again, I must say that Hotel Yajappa did not disappoint us when it came to hospitality and service. They kindly arranged a drop-off for us at Tanjore Railway Station.

Our train journey was from Tanjore, and our destination was Mambalam Railway Station, which is approximately 1.5 km from central T. Nagar. Since we were expected to arrive in the early hours, well before dawn, we checked with the hotel reception about transportation from the station. They assured us that auto-rickshaw services were available 24 hours at Mambalam.

We had already booked our train tickets with the help of the hotel staff, so everything was arranged. Since Tanjore was the starting point of the train, we were fortunate enough to get seats in the General compartment.

What a day it was! It was my daughter’s first-ever experience travelling in a General coach. She was fascinated by the whole experience until she spotted a mouse running around inside the coach! She was both surprised and scared, and even today, we remember that moment with a good laugh.

Travel is not always about luxury or perfect arrangements. Sometimes, it is the unexpected little moment, the unfamiliar experiences, the small inconveniences, and the laughter that follows, that become the memories we treasure the most.

Every journey comes with its own share of expenses, experiences, surprises, and stories. But when those experiences become cherished memories, they give us the energy and excitement to start planning our next adventure. 

A Journey to Chennai and Thanjavur: 2018 / 2

Thanjavur Palace

Within a few minutes, we reached the Thanjavur Palace. At first glance, it was evident that the palace was not in its best condition. Although restoration work was underway in certain areas, the exterior lacked proper maintenance and did not create the "wow" moment I had expected. Still, I remained hopeful and curious to explore what lay inside.

What saddened me more than the ageing structure was the untidy surroundings. While visiting such historical places, I often wonder why we, as Indians, fail to take the basic responsibility of keeping our heritage clean—something we readily practice when we are abroad. Is it because we often fail to value what we have at home, or perhaps because we take our freedom and heritage for granted?

We reached the palace at around 12 noon. A beautiful small temple of Lord Ganesha is seen near the entrance, welcoming visitors.

I am not sure whether it was the main entrance, but from there we noticed signboards pointing towards the Saraswathi Mahal Library and the Darbar Hall. Since the library was closed during our visit—I don't recall the exact reason—we decided to explore the Darbar Hall first.

The murals inside the palace were simply breathtaking. Despite the visible effects of age and inadequate maintenance, their beauty and craftsmanship still shone through.

Soon after, we came across a giant Thanjavur Bommai (Thanjavur dancing doll), one of the region's most famous cultural symbols.

Walking through the palace corridors, we reached a large open courtyard that connects different sections of the complex. From here, the impressive Manimandapam (Bell Tower) could also be seen.

The courtyard houses a beautiful Nandi statue, while the palace museum preserves numerous sculptures and artefacts, each accompanied by informative descriptions. We saw the Tulaja inscription, several ancient idols, including a Buddha statue, and many other historically significant exhibits.

As we explored, it started raining once again, prompting us to move indoors. Looking outside, we witnessed hundreds of parrots joyfully playing in the rain—a delightful sight. I had never seen so many parrots gathered in one place before.

The Thanjavur Palace, also known as the Maratha Palace or Nayak Palace, was originally built by the Thanjavur Nayaks, with significant additions later made by the Marathas. Its magnificent halls, supported by rows of grand pillars is amazing.

After spending considerable time reading the descriptions of the artefacts and admiring the sculptures, we walked towards the Maharaja Serfoji's Memorial Hall Museum.

Unfortunately, the issue of poor maintenance continued throughout the palace complex. Historical monuments like these deserve much better care, and preserving them should be a shared responsibility between the government and the public.

Creating awareness must begin at a young age. Beyond simply teaching history in classrooms, parents and teachers should actively encourage children to appreciate and protect our heritage. When young people are personally involved in understanding history, they develop a genuine sense of ownership and pride.

Although I completed my schooling in Dubai, UAE, my teachers enthusiastically taught us about India's rich history, its cultural significance, and the importance of preserving it for future generations. While I cannot claim to have made any contribution myself, I am happy that my daughter has developed a deep respect for India's heritage. What disappoints her is not India's history, but the lack of proper maintenance and the attitude of accepting things as they are. She often asks why, when the world is progressing so rapidly, we cannot maintain our historical sites or make better use of the facilities we already have.

Despite these shortcomings, she genuinely enjoys exploring India's historical treasures and feels proud of them. Interestingly, this is the same girl who once never wanted to leave Dubai but is now pursuing her higher education in India, hoping that one day she can contribute, even in a small way, towards the country. Being this said, She carries a deep sense of belonging to both countries and takes pride in the values and opportunities both countries are giving her.

Coming back to our visit, we climbed a long flight of steps leading to another museum section. While the collection itself was remarkable, many priceless artefacts appeared to be poorly displayed and inadequately preserved. It was quite disheartening, and after spending some time there, we decided to leave.

It should be noted that before visiting, the timings of both the palace museum and the Saraswathi Mahal Library must be checked. We spent around an hour exploring the palace complex. By then, it was lunchtime, and we headed out in search of a delicious vegetarian thali to continue our Thanjavur experience.

A Journey to Chennai and Thanjavur: 2018 / 1

One fine day, Amma and I were discussing buying sarees for my brother Arun's wedding. We had planned to shop at a few stores in Kerala, but one of our family members suggested that we go to Chennai instead, considering the cost and the amount of shopping we had to do.

Amma liked the idea because she had always wanted to take us to the Periya Kovil in Thanjavur, which she had visited before. So, our trip planning began.

We decided to travel to Thanjavur first and end our trip in Chennai. On 28 November 2018, we flew from Dubai to Tiruchirappalli. We reached early in the morning on 29 November. It was our first time travelling on a propeller aircraft, which made the journey a little more exciting. From Tiruchirappalli, we travelled by car to Thanjavur.

Trichy welcomed us with a pleasant shower of rain, making the weather cool and refreshing.

After checking into our hotel in Thanjavur, we went straight to the Periya Kovil. 

After reading Google reviews, I chose Hotel Yagappa. At that time, I wasn't familiar with booking platforms like MakeMyTrip or Agoda. Instead, I contacted the hotel directly by phone and email and reserved a room for three adults and one child.

To be honest, Hotel Yagappa turned out to be a great choice. The hotel was clean, comfortable, and very welcoming. The front office staff were friendly and helpful, making our short stay pleasant.

Our initial plan was to hire a taxi ourselves and visit the Periya Kovil. However, while waiting at the reception, I noticed that the hotel offered local sightseeing and taxi packages. We spoke to the front office staff, and they were happy to arrange a taxi for a full-day trip around Thanjavur. I don't remember the exact amount we paid, but it was convenient and saved us the trouble of making separate arrangements.

The package included not only the Periya Kovil but also a few other famous temples in and around Thanjavur. Since I was travelling with my parents, the trip naturally became a pilgrimage tour. I have always enjoyed such trips too. The architecture of South Indian temples has always fascinated me, and I feel a special connection whenever I visit these magnificent structures.

While writing this blog, I looked up Hotel Yagappa again on Google and MakeMyTrip. I was happy to see that, even after all these years, the hotel has continued to maintain its good ratings. It was nice to know that our positive experience was not just a one-time thing.

We reached the Periya Kovil, also known as the Brihadisvara Temple, Rajarajesvaram, or Thanjai Periya Kovil, at around 10 a.m. Before entering the temple, we were asked to leave our footwear at the designated shoe stand.

It was my first time seeing such a magnificent temple gopuram. The entire place had an earthy and timeless feel, as if it was welcoming us into a different era. The weather made the experience even more special. There was a light drizzle, the air was cool, and a gentle mist surrounded the temple, creating a peaceful atmosphere.

The Periya Kovil is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a protected monument maintained by the Archaeological Survey of India. At the same time, it continues to be an active place of worship, where Lord Shiva is worshipped as Rajarajeshwar with regular poojas conducted every day. The temple also hosts cultural programmes, including classical dance performances. During our visit, we noticed that preservation and restoration work was being carried out in parts of the temple complex.

The massive Nandi and the Nandi Mandapam were truly a sight to behold. Every part of the temple reflects the brilliance of Chola architecture, and it is easy to understand why it is admired by people from all over the world.

We spent about one and a half hours exploring the temple complex, had a peaceful darshan of the huge Shiva Linga, and then continued to our next destination, the Thanjavur Palace, which is located nearby.

Walking through the temple brought back memories of my school days. During my social studies classes, especially between Grades 4 and 7, we had separate books on Indian History and Civics. Indian History was one of my favorite subjects. I also remember working on social studies vacation projects, for which I collected Labour India study books and other reference & project books from India. One of those projects was about the Chola dynasty.

I don't remember every detail from those lessons, but I clearly remember seeing pictures and models of this magnificent temple in my those reference magazines. Standing there in person years later felt surreal. It was wonderful to finally see, with my own eyes, a monument that I had only read about as a child.

I hope to write a detailed blog about the Periya Kovil soon.